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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.